Orla Kiely @ London Fashion Week
By Ellina Webb
Held in the exclusive setting of the Portico Rooms in Somerset House, the atmosphere inside Orla Kiely’s 2009 presentation at London Fashion Week was the epitome of a fashion gathering; industry bods, journalists, PR companies and buyers networked, sipped champagne and got up close to the beautiful collection.
The presentation of Irish-born Orla Kiely’s latest womenswear collection was a retro themed affair affirmed by the presence of an enormous 1960’s/1970’s television set in the centre of the room. You only need to look at Kiely’s designs in terms of tailoring and prints to know that this prop was representative of an era she clearly draws her inspiration from.
And if for any reason the thought had crossed your mind that you were NOT in the Orla Kiely presentation, a quick glance at the mannequins would have assured you otherwise as each head and torso was printed with Kiely’s signature stem pattern. And just to ensure further innovation and femininity, each mannequin’s base, was a plant pot of flowers; an added touch of delicacy to an undeniably beautiful presentation.
Elegant designs adorned with heavy prints have become Kiely’s signature style among the fashion world and these were by no means in short supply at the collection. Heavily patterned tea dresses and skirts were cut with a high waist or finished off with skinny belts as a nod to 1970s fashion trends while more loosely fitted smock and shift dresses resembled those worn by 1960s supermodel Twiggy. A retro tone filled the room with the designs finished off in an equally yesteryear colour palette of muted yellows, mustards, oranges and browns.
Orla Kiely may have an MA in knitwear (she received a Masters from the Royal College of Art) but it is not a heavy influence in her clothing and acts only as a subtle addition to her cotton and silk garments. Instead, effortlessly feminine raincoats and short boxy jackets are more frequently draped over the torsos of mannequins oozing sophistication and style.
The quirky elements of nostalgia in Kiely’s clothing undoubtedly sets her apart from other designers and leaves her simultaneously appreciated by celebrities and us ordinary folk. Had her designs been around 50 years ago, there is no doubt that Orla Kiely’s pieces would have been staple items in the wardrobes of then fashion icons Lulu, Marianne Faithful, Mary Quant and of course Twiggy.
